Thursday

Another really hot day - mid 30s. Although we were out of the house early (i.e. before 9am) we were thwarted in our attempts to 'do' the Forum before it got too hot by the difficulties presented by Italian Tourism which seems to relish in a lack of directions or reliable information. Thus, it took us about an hour to find the entrance to the Forum. Meanwhile the children were entertained watching the filming of a roman film of some sort featuring Roman soldiers in chariots.

Nonetheless, the Forum was spectacular, albeit exhausting in the heat. Eva loved jumping from one giant flag stone to the next and collecting pebbles to put in her purse and playing with her princess sticker book. The rest of us were impressed with the weight of history beneath our feet and all around us. There was an exhibition relating to Nero which was somewhat chaotically laid out with a map provided that was next to useless. The bits we were able to understand were very interesting. I was impressed by how much the boys remembered over lunch afterwards.

After another delicious pizza lunch (Eva demanded pasta then refused to eat it and demanded Sam's Margarita instead, which she had previously not wanted. No logic at all), we staggered through the heat to the metro station and travelled south to San Paulo. Just this morning I had expressed my surprise that there was no St Paul's church in Rome when every other Saint known to Catholocism seems to have one, particularly since St Paul was no small time saint. A brief look at the map later and there was St Paul's Basilica, the third largest church in Christendom, built on the site of his execution none the less. After the hot morning, a cool, peaceful church sounded very appealing.

Not only were we impressed by the modest (if large) facade of the Basilica but also with the peaceful, suburban surroundings, at least relative to central Rome. Less traffic, less noise, less frenzy. Compared to the baroque splendour of St Peter's, St Paul's was a breath of fresh air. It was quiet, empty and peaceful with some decoration but not to the extent of having every square millimetre of wall bedecked in gilt and marble. To me it seemed a place much more open to contemplation and prayer. Above the main alter was a magnificent golden mosaic covering a large area of roof in an arc shape. For a gold coin, it would light up, looking most spectacular. At each end of the transverse naves were smaller alters decorated with malachite and lapis lazuli and devoted to Mary and St Paul. Around the ceiling of the centre nave were pictures of all the previous popes - small mosaics. There are 12 empty places left. Allegedly it is said that when the last place has been filled the end of the world will come.

In the centre of the church is an old stone sarcophagus housing the body of St Paul and above it in a glass box can be seen the chains that allegedly bound him in the final days before his execution.

When asked what was the best part of the day, Eva answered: 'the museum' by which she meant the basilica. What about it I asked? 'The cafe', she answered. I have to say that we liked the cafe too. It was air conditioned. We were hot.

We had planned to travel further South by bus to visit the catacombs at San Sebastiano but ran out of puff and time. Mañana.

Our other gripe with Italian tourism is TOILETS or the lack thereof. For the entire Colloseum area there are 2 female and 1 male toilet and 1 of each for the Forum. And they are Not Very Nice.

We are also underwhelmed with italian breakfasts. Too many sugary cakes with little substance that fail to fill. Boiled eggs for us tomorrow morning.

breakfast of sugary, empty cakes. 

roman charioteer near the Colosseum. very entertaining

And the Colosseum itself (in case you'd forgotten)

My favourite ceiling in the forum

and again

hot Sam

Alex with the Forum behind him

Eva (clutching princess sticker book) skipping on the flagstones

more sticking over lunch

Master Chef Italia

the interior of St Paul's Basilica

the incredible mosaic over the main alter

everyone exhausted, waiting for the train back

fish fingers, Italian style

Smurfs, Italian style

We were amused on the metro today to see advertisements for Italian Master Chef and for fish fingers - never imagined the Italians would stoop to that level. Also of note were the ads for the new Smurf Movie, which in Italian is called: Puffi .